Ancient Tracks

This itinerary from Breglia (749 m) to Rezzonico (200 m) follows traces of the antique Roman transit road to the alpine passes: the “Antica Strada Regina”. The trail leads through chestnut woods and along small rural settlements with nice views of the lake.

Description

From the bus stop at Breglia walk along the side of the church of S. Gregorio, to the far end of the parking area and pick up Via per Carcente to the left. It leads among the houses to a picturesque little square. Above the fountain pick up the street to the right.

You are now on the Via dei Monti Lariani, a hiking trail of 125 km which starts at Cernobbio and leads to the northern end of the lake connecting the small rural settlements scattered along the slopes on the west side of the lake.

Just after you have left Breglia behind you, the trail is interrupted by a big land slide. In order to bypass the landslide, you are directed to a recently built cart-track that should have connected Breglia with Carcente but as for now it is not passable. After 200 meters you leave the track (sign) in order to reach the original trail again that leads through the chestnut woods down into the Val Greno. You cross the stream over a bridge where there is a little shrine dedicated to the Madonna of the valley. The path goes around the valley and reaches the picturesque village of Carcente. You can enjoy a nice view of the lake and on the Grigne (alt. 2410 m) that towers above the town Varenna on the other side of the lake.

At Carcente there is a small museum housed in a typical stone building of the village; it contains tools and household furnishing featuring aspects of rural daily life. It is open by request tel. (+39) 3452461159.

You leave the Via dei Monti Lariani that from Carcente heads up to Monti di Carcente and you continue on the track that leads to the end of the village. From here you walk to the village Treccione (alt. 647 m) from where you have a wonderful view of Monte Legnone (alt. 2609 m) that towers above the town Dervio.

At the beginning of the hamlet take the steps downhill to right (sign post) and at the end, in front of a small wash place, pick up the track down to the right (sign post). The track leads onto the road which you follow down-hill in the direction of the village Noledo, and passes the deviation to Gallio where there is a small shrine and a pic-nick table. Fifty meters past the next bend in the road pick up the old track again on the left (black arrow on the guardrail). Once at Noledo you end onto the road which you follow to the left. After just 30 m pick up the track to Lucena on your right (Via Valle di Noledo – signpost).

Once at Lucena, at the fork, go left and cross the small bridge over the Valle dei Molini. On the left on a hillock stands the church dedicated to the Madonna Immacolata. At the end of Via Ponte di Lucena, at the fork, turn right and pick up the track that descends to Marena (sign)

At the end of the steps (Via Marena) turn left. From the small piazza (Piazza Marena) pick up the alley (Via al Marin) on the left of the washing place. It leads to the road which you cross with caution in order to pick up the old track again. You reach the hamlet Roncate where, (to the right) at the little parking lot, you follow Via Valle di Roncate down to the right . At the fork go right and follow the trail along the valley. It ends up on the road; and after just 50m pick up the track again on the left.

At the end of the descent with a view of the castle of Rezzonico, you reach the newer version of the Antica Strada Regina. It is possible to follow it back to Menaggio – time required 3 hours – see walk 8. Those who wish to return by bus to Menaggio will find the bus stop along the main road.

We highly recommend to visit the picturesque centre of Rezzonico with its little piazza on the lake. The castle of Rezzonico is of the 14th century. It was built by the local noble Della Torre family The building is surmounted by an embattled tower. At present it is a private residence.